My first surf adventure this year was at the North Shore with my lover for lunch where I ate shit and had multiple servings of humble pie. I love that about surfing. The way it keeps you on your toes and and forces you to leave your complacency on the beach next to your slippers and towels before you assume your role as a surfer and perpetual student of the sea. It's not about being a perfectionist either– my attention span is too short for that and I'm having too much fun not being perfect. It's just about knowing that sometimes, you don't know everything. Sometimes, you take off backside with style and grace, and sometimes, you superman your way over your board and charlie horse yourself with your own skegs.
"Everybody plays the kook, sometimes– There's no exception to the rule", said someone sometime.