January 27, 2015


I float-surfed/played buoy the biggest session of my life at the South Shore (or any where ever) this past week. I wouldn't call it surfing, unless pooping your pants on your board counts. I was definitely scared but I was surprised I wasn't panicked and didn't hyperv...

January 15, 2015

Makapu'u, on the east side of O'ahu, looks just as beatiful on a cloudy, gray day.  If I wasn't such a brick with legs, I'd drop in here more to bodysurf.  

"Makapu'u Couplet"

November 4, 2014

My biggest smallest critic is my cat, Bernard Banks.  Here, he's contemplating my monochromatic wave choice. 


"Looks like a nightmare. I'd lighten that brick up.  And clean dhis pigsty!"


Thanks, cat... thanks.




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