January 27, 2015


I float-surfed/played buoy the biggest session of my life at the South Shore (or any where ever) this past week. I wouldn't call it surfing, unless pooping your pants on your board counts. I was definitely scared but I was surprised I wasn't panicked and didn't hyperv...

January 15, 2015

Makapu'u, on the east side of O'ahu, looks just as beatiful on a cloudy, gray day.  If I wasn't such a brick with legs, I'd drop in here more to bodysurf.  

"Makapu'u Couplet"

November 4, 2014

My biggest smallest critic is my cat, Bernard Banks.  Here, he's contemplating my monochromatic wave choice. 


"Looks like a nightmare. I'd lighten that brick up.  And clean dhis pigsty!"


Thanks, cat... thanks.




August 8, 2014

Thanks to Iselle for not cramping my birthday tradition of catching my age +1 for good luck in waves and for providing an uncrowded (at least for the first two hours of my four-hour session) Queens in Waikiki.  Despite the mental breakdown I almost succumbed to during...

May 21, 2014

Longboarding makes me feel like a ballerina – and that's a big deal for someone like me who has two left feet and zero grace on the dance floor.  

(Photo by Ryo Kubota)



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May 8, 2014

Around the corner 

of these surprise spring sessions 

is summer's sunburn.

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