This was painted en plein air at the world-famous Banzai Pipeline on the North Shore of O'ahu while I sipped a $1.89 can of semi-cold Asahi– though in my mind I was laying strokes in between dainty gulps of chilled champagne and noshing on caviar because clearly, I w...

There I was with my coconut, minding our own business, when this big dude tried to pick me up!

I float-surfed/played buoy the biggest session of my life at the South Shore (or any where ever) this past week. I wouldn't call it surfing, unless pooping your pants on your board counts. I was definitely scared but I was surprised I wasn't panicked and didn't hyperv...

My first surf adventure this year was at the North Shore with my lover for lunch where I ate shit and had multiple servings of humble pie. I love that about surfing.  The way it keeps you on your toes and and forces you to leave your complacency on the beach next to yo...

"I walk through her hills

'Cause she knows who I am

She sees my good deeds

And she kisses me windy"

-Red Hot Chili Peppers

It's been a hundred or so years since I was a little, pimply teenager, but this song played in my head as I came down the cliff right befo...

Hardly noticeable at times until you run into them, but there really are a lot of pricks everywhere—but you just learn to pick them out and toss them aside.  Also, in the pricks are good lessons on patience.  Also, also, the branches make great barbeques!

If only good-bye's were always this sweet...  Diamond Head has been at it's shining glory the last two days of the last summer swell.  Here he is offeing some 5-6 ft. walls to those brave enough to charge and to those oblivious of the consequences.  Elvis would be rol...

Looks like all that rain-dancing in the backyard in my undies, begging the surf gods for waves finally paid off this late summer.  Good stuff happening in Town last and this week...

Around the corner 

of these surprise spring sessions 

is summer's sunburn.